Ultimate 28-Hour New Car Detailing — RallyWays Toyota Tacoma TRD

18 Июн 2015 | Author: | No comments yet »
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Ultimate 28-Hour New Car Detailing – Toyota Tacoma TRD

I recently my most ambitious new car detailing to date. It was a 28-hour detailing job on the new RallyWays Toyota Tacoma.

I been studying professional carefully on my own in my spare time. I learned that brand new car is as important as detailing a car that might need it more. I friends that drive and other super cars brains I have been to learn their secrets for car I have also spent hours reading tutorials, and articles about pro auto mainly for high-end cars. is a big difference between the instructions for products at O-Reilly’s and the products and used by the true car show aficionados.

The great thing this feature is that the and products I used to detail new $30,000 truck are the same used to detail a $300,000 car.

The only thing detail did not include was paint and swirl-removal. The truck is brand and it did not sit at the dealership long enough to get and scratched. Additionally, I asked the not to wash or detail the truck they delivered it to me. So basically, I it as they got it from the ship plastics, shipping waxes and all over the thing. The truck is which shows swirls less than darker But trust me, there weren’t

Let’s start with the for this project.

Wash and shipping grime.

Dry with a and microfiber towels.

Clay bar the to get it ready for protection.

Clay jambs, windows, windshield, bumpers and lamps.

Seal the with a synthetic sealant for protection.

Layer carnauba wax the sealant for better depth and

Vacuum and wipe down

Protect plastics with 303 and apply water resistant to carpet.

Wax door jambs.

wheels, clay them out and seal with Rejex.

lamps, chrome and glass Rejex.

Apply 303 Protectant to all and rubber inside and out.

I selected all the products used many hours of research. I already written an intro describing all the products to be used in project in detail. You can find the here: Best Car Detailing

The process used to detail Toyota Tacoma TRD is pretty the same process I recommend in my Car Process page – albeit a few adjustments to suit this project’s needs.

The initial of the truck is pretty straightforward. I use the method as well as 2 microfiber What I do is I first soak the with water to start the of loosening the dirt while I on mixing the solutions for the wash. I would use a quality car washing like Meguiar’s Ultimate Wax, which won’t the wax. But because I’m starting at the beginning, with a new vehicle, I any unknown wax off. So I wash it Dawn dish detergent – good at stripping wax.

preparing one of the buckets with the of Dawn soap and the other clean fresh water for the sponges, I then “foam” the Since I don’t have a on hand, I simply make to make lots of suds and them up with the sponge. I spread all these suds the vehicle by squeezing the sponge ever touching the paint. I go through an entire bucket this first.

Spreading the suds all over the car helps loosen the dirt you even touch the car. goes a long way in preventing marks and surface scratches washing.

Before I start the paint however, I wash the and tires. I have a dedicated sponge, washcloth and brush for process. And of course, the dirty must be thrown out and NEVER for the paint itself. I like to the car covered in suds during the 15 it takes me to clean the wheels and All the while, the suds are working for me in up the dirt. Note, this be done in the shade. If you have no you need to work faster and keep water on the vehicle’s No suds until you’re to work on it. Otherwise, the sun will dry all the on the paint and stain it.

After is done I start from the top and clean one section at a time. I clean the sponge in the rinsing before I go and pick up more soap. The reason I have 2 for the paint is because the bottom of the vehicle (waist down) are dirtier than the top. I like to use the main sponge for the sections of the car, to help it cleaner. This does not into account the extra wash cloth and brush I only use for the wheels.

Having the wash and sprayed the truck with a garden hose I’m ready to dry. Before however, I have a neat trick. I remove the nozzle off the so that I’m able to sheet off the vehicle, top to bottom in sections. prevents having a million droplets on top of the car and makes drying easier and safer. It’s because you have to touch the less.

I like to use a blower for of the drying process. This me avoid touching the paint and swirls. You need an electric for this. Don’t use a gas one. gas blowers exhaust right the blower itself and will oils all over your So, electric only. A leaf is fine, but a dedicated heating is even better as it will dry faster and better. Mine is so I have to finish off the drying job a pair of large and fluffy towels. The first one takes of the bigger sections, while the one is used for odds and ends.

I will be working on a full I don’t want water to be out of the crevices as I ‘m working. So, I make to blow all the water I can out of the little But because I’ll be claying it will be pretty much dry by the time I’m ready to add wax.

I to use an actual chamois, instead of for the door jams and the edges of the bay and trunk (tailgate in this I find the chamois gets dirty, but cleans much than the microfiber towels you put them in the washer.

It’s now to clay the paint in order to get it for protection. Clay bar for cars is the way to clean the paint and prep it for I’m sure you will ask, why clay the paint if it’s a new or “Should I clay bar a new car?” The is YES.

In fact, there’s no better to clay the paint than the vehicle is new and you are preparing it for protection for the few years. Cars arrive of dirty from the factory. the paint is crazy contaminated. contamination from the shipping rail dust stuck in the pores and all kinds of grime packing materials, tape and

The minute you start claying the you’ll notice just how it really is. In this particular it’s a truck that had not been at the dealership for more 2 weeks. Most new cars sit much longer than before they are bought, so obviously be worse.

I used Smooth Surface Clay Kit for the job and it was For the clay bar lubricant, I used Quik Detailer for part of the but also tried Chemical Synthetic Quick Detailer. were absolutely fine for the However, in the future, I’d like to try a more aggressive clay the standard Meg’s stuff. No big though.

I had 2 bars of clay. a big truck, not one of my Miatas, and I found the bar to get quite dirty 2/3′s of the way the job. So, I broke out the second bar near the end. The first bar I to use for the glass, lamps, chrome doorjambs, tailgate and hood Then I put it away to further it for claying the wheels. After it was pretty much trash. The bar was clean enough to see another day in the future.

After claying the truck and wiping off any excess quick detailer I got ready to for paint sealant. By then, the day was to an end, but I wanted to at least the first layer of protection. this today would me to call it a day and leave the truck in the to let the synthetic paint sealant for 12 hours.

Some guys to wash the vehicle again claying. I personally don’t this is necessary unless pushing the 28-hour detail up the 30′s. Since my quick has no additives, I find it to leave no Otherwise, a good cleaner is a good idea to get the paint for protection.

Inspect and polish

going crazy on wax, to my car detailing procedure, at this I must inspect the paint to decide if it needs polishing or Most of the time, a bit of polish can go a way, but you also don’t to polish every time you do an detail job. Polishing paint or clearcoat, and you only so much of that until you cut it.

At this point, you can measure the thickness if you have one of those paint thickness meters and how to proceed. The truck is new, so the is nice and thick. It’s and new. Shining a strong LED on it reveals very little to be about. I decide no polish is so I’m skipping this step. I’m aiming at a 30-hour project at the Including paint correction is project would likely it a 40-hour ordeal. That I’m for the next project. So I move on.

protection

Ok, now comes the big deal in the project. Also, the hardest of the job, but the one I like the most. The Taco is a daily driver and get detailed every week the garage queens. It will be once a month and waxed every 2 months. It needs protection than your coat of carnauba can offer. of this, I’m applying a synthetic sealant instead of carnauba Polymer synthetic sealants longer and protect better regular car wax. However, don’t look as pretty. For reason, this time I’m testing the method of layering wax sealed paint.

I had planned to span this over Saturday and Sunday and finish it off working Monday Unfortunately, Sunday brought a bit of rain, so I had to work most of the inside a tiny garage. slowed me down quite a Needless to say, the project completed until Wednesday

My choice of paint sealant for the job was Deep Gloss Paint 3.0 at $40 for the 16oz bottle. Before the sealant, or any wax for that matter, I off plastic trim that can get contaminated with wax using 3M painter’s tape. This a long way in keeping black looking black.

Some of the trim I can avoid touching by being careful. However, locations should be masked. If you are wax using an orbital buffer, you go berserk on the painter’s tape. buffers speed up the job and add ease, but are much harder to keep off the trim than a hand

By the time I’m applying the Wolfgang it’s nearly dark so I out my powerful halogen work to help me out. I apply the in long lines, as the air would over the truck, not in a circular I’m applying it by hand using rather nice applicators I from the Zaino website a few back.

I work on a section at a noticing it takes about 10 before I can buff out the residue sealant from the panel I’m on using microfiber towels. The towels I’m using, I fold This gives me 8 fresh to work with. As the towel saturated with wax residue, I over, unfold a section, so on and so until I have used all 8 surfaces. Then I switch to towel.

After I have the whole truck, I call it a Lights off and I let the sealant cure

Early Sunday morning I to work on the interior before I with the paint protection. usually a good idea to on the interior between wax coats to it to cure. I figured it would me the opportunity to go to church after I’m sorting out the interior. After it’s Sunday. When I get I can continue with the wax layering.

The is of course only a few weeks so a bit of vacuuming and dusting is all that is for cleanliness. I used one of those Dyson Ball vacuum Turns out they work for too. But, it’s obvious they were mostly for home carpets and the attachments and hose for a car could been a little less with a different setup. done, the tricky part was the proofing and protection…

For protection I 303 Aerospace Protectant on all plastics and I love 303 Protectant because it depth to plastics but the result is a satin finish. There is no or sticky shiny residue with other products. nothing looks as cheesy as shiny and sticky interiors.

I proceeded to spray the floor with 303 Fabric Guard as as the carpet itself. That was a bit of an Not with the mats, as those I did The problem was the carpet. I did not want to get stuff on anything other the carpet. Using a piece of I cut from a shipping box I had to play to mask off areas I did not want before I could spray. 303 Fabric Guard is not an aerosol, it quite a lot more “wet” and forever to dry too. It took 2 days for the stuff to cure

Microfiber rags for the interior with an ammonia-free window finish off the interior work. I decided what I’m going to do the seats just yet. I’m he 303 Fabric Guard is just too wet and for the seats. I’m afraid it might the fabric too. Since claims they come from factory, I’ll leave them as is for now. in a year I’ll consider to do about protection.

Layering wax is that is very popular on garage queens and show not trucks. But the RallyWays Taco is the today and I decided I was going to waxes on it. Like I said synthetic paint sealants to protect better and last but they don’t shine as as carnauba wax.

The plan is to apply 2 layers of wax over the sealant. This will be in hopes to deepen the shine and to the protection even further. The end would come after 2 coats of wax spaced by 12+ hour periods. This would 3 layers – The sealant, and the 2 coats of

For the wax I chose Collinite 845 for reasons you can about in that article. The wax on easy and smooth. I’m layering it on an slick and protected surface so it on even more smoothly. 845 is very easy to apply. it is not as easy as other waxes, but not too tough. I applied the car wax in the same I did with the Wolfgang 3.0 paint Again I use a Zaino applicator pad and the residue with a microfiber I did notice I had to wait a little for the Collinite 845 to haze over in with the Wolfgang paint

This was all done on Sunday. But it until Monday night I was applying the second coat of Still Tuesday night were sections I had to cover.


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and protecting further

This a intensive detailing job. No is left unturned. Between of wax I had to wait 12 hours at least for coat to cure. During time, I got busy with things. I decided to leave the to the end simply because those going to be a pain in the arse to do.

I waited for the Collinite 845 to cure I the glass, chrome bumpers, tail lamps and all external and rubber trim. The plastic and trim was easy. I simply 303 Protectact on a clean microfiber and carefully applied it. Carefully, I could not get any on the paint. I treated the top of the bed liner, the plastic trim the front bumper, the black view mirror housings and else I could find was plastic or rubber. I love how the 303 makes the blacks deeper, yet not and shiny. This stuff is becoming one of my very favorite I might even make a smoothie out of it. 303 strawberry smoothie. bananas.

Next up was treating the headlights, taillights and chrome with my other secret Rejex. While Rejex is great as a paint sealant, for project it’s only the job of keeping the glass slick as as other areas that not be protected with actual It’s great on painted and on headlights because it’s to keep bugs from to the surfaces.

The rear bumper in the TRD Offroad is chrome. That got a coat of as well.

Detailed detailing

layering waxes I also the time to apply paint to the doorjambs. I figured I could wax too, but because this is a protected area that is not direct sunlight I decided a coat of sealant would be than enough. It should last a very long

Keep in mind I had previously cleaned and clayed the door all the way to the front hinges. You know hinges that always awful and grungy in most Well, those. They are clean and shiny on my truck.

small details included 303 Protectant to all the weather-stripping, and the mud flaps. the mud flaps are coming off soon. look silly.

I took time to work on the engine bay as Everything in there was clean, but I out a bit of dust here and there. Of I also protected all the plastic and bits with my favorite… 303

The wheel-wells were wiped the exhaust was cleaned and the wide edge of the fenders, which are was also sealed and waxed. the crevices around the gas cap cover cleaned. The front plastic grille was Rejexed. That one out awesome by the way.

Collinite 845 Pristine and shiny.

Headlamps and Rejex applied. Clean end.

Rejex applied to inside out. Inside of was clayed and sealed.

Ready to get again. Interior is fully and protected.

Rear lamps clayed and Rejexed. Nice to finish it all off.

The last

By Tuesday night I was able to the last coat of Collinite By then, the paint was very and much more glossy with paint sealant The last bit to still deal was the wheels. Those were a tricky because I had to take off. There’s no way to really get in to clean and protect without them off. The nice is, once they have cleaned and treated, keeping clean is a lot easier.

I did one end at a time. I jacked up the rear end, put it on stands and removed both wheels. I washed them inside out to make sure were perfectly clean. I the tires with a diluted of Simple Green and brushed until my right arm fell Once clean, I dried with the blower.

I then the wheels inside and out with relegated bit of clay bar I had used the beginning of this project. pretty much rendered the bar completely useless. Using clay bar on the wheels turned it light grey play-dough.

The themselves got a coat of 303 Protectant. The were coated inside out Rejex. I’ve heard is really good on wheels and keep them clean by not brake dust and other to stick to them. So far, been going great.

I was done with the back I put them back on, torqued the lug with my handy “el-cheapo” Freight 1/2″ torque and proceeded to repeat the process in the That was Tuesday night.

Come Wednesday late I was sore and tired but pretty done. By then it was just a of inspecting the work in sunlight and bits of wax here and there to off. I cleaned off a few fingerprints on the and paint. I made sure was no residue on the wheels or anywhere for that matter. Put the floor back in. Those were in the garage. Then shot of the photos you see here. The bright were shot early in the the following day.

This was one intensive detail job. one of those projects that on the quality of the products used and the and attention to detail spent, you be paying over a grand to a pro do it. For this reason, it’s not for the of heart – whether you are doing it or paying someone to do it. This is way beyond the “executive” car detail you pay $595.00 for at a gas station detail I’ve seen plenty of No, this project is way beyond

In the end, unless you have a or a Ferrari you’re probably why you would do this sort of on a daily driver if it’s going to get dirty again Well first of all, it was an in applying most of the knowledge of car I have been gathering the years in a “hold nothing approach. Secondly, while it be getting dirty again there’s no denying it will cleaner longer. It will be protected and make for easier in the near future.

Bugs can be wiped off the paint with a bit of detailer instead of having engraved in the paint. I know, a week after I had finished project I drove through a of at least 2,000 bees at 60 mph them all over the front end of the An hour later I was very cleaning them off with detailer like nothing

A full month later, the is yet to be washed again, it’s through 3 rainstorms and it still clean. Nothing sticks to it. The was totally worth it.

This took 28 hours to complete. The project will be on a garage and will include paint and more coats of wax. one I estimate at 40 hours. Good is, as a garage queen, I can take than 3 days and not worry it being out of commission longer that. On the truck I couldn’t go than that because we to use it.

What do you think? Would you tackling a project like yourself or would you pay the hefty of cash for someone else to do it? car?

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