Racing Strong Motorsports™ | Toyota MR2 Performance

11 Июн 2015 | Author: | No comments yet »
Toyota MR2

Racing Strong Motorsports MR2 GTv6 Endurance Racing Finishes 3rd at VIR Regional Championship

A bit of off roading could not stop the RSm MR2 GTv6!

RSm’s 1991 MR2 GTv6 finished 3rd in the 2013 Batteries ChumpCar World Eastern Division Championship at

Ice and freezing rain could not the power and reliability of the Camry V6 MR2 against some of the fastest in the ChumpCar series.

Gene Mike Helm and Bill piloted the MR2 RSm’s best in 4 years of racing in the ChumpCar Series.

2014 brings big changes to RSm and endurance racing. 8 planned with more

RSm #79 Toyota MR2 GTv6

3.3 liter V6 Powered 2001 Toyota MR2 Build – Part 1: Parts

I have grown tired of to rev the snot out of my 200hp 2ZZ-GE 2001 MR2 Spyder. I want the of the V6 in my lightweight sports car. So now the begins…

2001 Toyota MR2 GTv6


2005 3MZ-FE, used, miles. I’ll refresh the tensioners, water pump and a few bits.

2001 1MZ-FE 3 VVTi engine harness. is plug and play on the later 3MZ the 1MZ VVTi ECU. This the use of a non-electronic throttle control. The Old fashioned wired throttle.

1MZ-FE knock sensors.

Toyota Avalon ECU, part number: 89661-07311. I this may have had the immobilizer up to it. Cost was $75 for him to zap the ECU back into mode. So I will send it off to: Francisco at AD USA 650-351-8270

1435 Ave. Ste C

Moroso 1.5 oil accumulator, for those days we do track the car at VIR or Summit Point.

KN air filter and BPi Flow Stack with Jet Performance Mass Air Meter.

Woodsport Performance gearbox with Quaife

1995 Toyota MR2 axles and intermediate shaft using the RSm mount on the intermediate ST185 26-spline outer

Walbro High Pressure fuel pump, internal FPR.

The chassis is already sorted with Eibach Pro and Koni struts, RSm chassis and 245 40ZR17 and 215 40ZR17 tires matching big wheels. Brakes are with Porterfield pads.

More to come as we start it all together. And when I am done, you know how to build your own MR2 GTv6!

How to build a MK1.22 powered 1985-1989 MR2

How to build a and dirty MK1.22 5SFE MK1 AW11 MR2

Remove engine and latch mounting sheet on chassis. this gets in the Use hood pins to hold lid in

No need to cut battery box out. battery right there. later if you want. we see no performance in real life. maybe on the but not in real life.

use a 93+ 5sfe the 93+ S54 5-speed that goes the engine. Better setup 90-92 5SFE. But if that is you have then use it.

Use a Rav4 exhaust manifold. – lighter and more power and it last. too.

hack together an air box or do I did with a good KN filter. makes pre-made that you weld in. I did not use the jig, I placed the engine in where I it. mounted the side mounts to the then tacked them in Pulled engine and welded to painted.

I used the Speed-Source mount and welded up a rear using the speed source side for the rear.

Get a Celica alternator mount as this the alt to the exhaust side and up high. you want to notch a hole in the trunk and frame to fit it down I just hacked a hole.

MR2 1990-1995 5SFE N/A axles fit the and the MK1 hubs.

Replace electrical sender with mechanical off of S54.

Stock 4age pump works fine. You can if you want to either 5SFE I suggest people do that so know they are getting a pump.

send 5SFE to for cleaning.

use stock to 1995 MK2 5sfe fuel The connect up to the AW11 filter and return. Replace fuel Charcoal canister from the works fine as well.

is really easy. Call Hawkins to come out and do it for you. Use the Paul Woods MK1.5 diagram. 1/2 the wires in that are not as the 5SFE is really a simple

have your radiator cleaned. use a new stock MK2 5sfe MR2 side hoses. that is the fun just slice and dice to it all fit.

I use a 90s Corolla over

Use the MK2 coolant fill tube and

change oil pump, water cam belt, clutch before the engine back in.

Use the MK1.5 clutch hose.

that is it. take 3 to 4 days to do the swap, 5 or 6 if you have to borrow a socket seriously. If you can’t, then go back to changing air filters on

Stolen cheap race car ideas

I have found ion the web to make for cheap and to add some to your car build. Here are a few we off the ChumpCar forum..

-RWD Shortening/Building —  If you need to a driveshaft or pair the front of one the rear of another, this works very well. need to cut the originals apart, and want the seam to be as close to end as possible for balance reasons so that in mind when you them.Fit them together in the paying attention to be sure the are aligned. Start by tack-welding and with a poor-man’s dial-indicator: a grip clamped to the car so it nearly the driveshaft. Keep turning the and smacking the tacked weld until it turns true in to the Vise-grip, then finish the Cheap, easy, and they come out balanced really Tools Needed: Saw of some MIG Welder, Vise Grip (or other method of indicating the of the driveshaft)

-Body/Spoiler Bracing from Line —  Fuel with the ends flattened in a and drilled makes for very lightweight body bracing. zinc-plated so it won’t rust, and it’s meant to be formed, very easy to work and straighten either when or after you get crunched. Buy a straight of 5/16″ or 3/8″ Steel line from your parts shop, cut pieces to flatten both ends in a then drill holes in ends, you can radius the flattened with a grinder or sander to them up. Secure with or 1/4-20 Screws and Nylock Quick, easy, light, cheap, and professional looking.  Needed: Vise, Drill

For circle track racing used to support skinned panels, but in Chumpcar I’ve them as spoiler braces in of purpose-built adjustable ones usually run $20+ each. that, you could use them as supports, dash supports,

This shows some ones used on the inside of a model nose:

— Get rid of under nuts that off.  Take a wizz to the nuts face to add some to the nut/surface interface.


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