Sahara Overland ~ Ennedi by Camel 2011

17 Апр 2015 | Author: | No comments yet »
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Travellers reports from the


Ennedi by Camel

Alistair Bestow

I travelled by on a 28-day journey with one and a guide departing and returning to The trip started on 8th December and finished on 4 January 2012. The was excellent, the guide very (although he could not speak any or English, and I could not speak

The trip covered several of the highlights, including Guelta (3 nights), Puit de Tokou (2 Guelta Bachekele (noted as Chekele’ on the 1974 IGN 1:1m ‘Largeau’ sheet — top click to enlarge), 4 nights, Rocks of Terkei (2 nights), Deli, Baki and then to Fada. We travelled about 5-6 a day but spent several days at sites. The weather was excellent, only 2-3 days of quite wind. Food for the trip was based on variations of spaghetti, sardines, dried tomatoes, and tinned peas.

The trip was to organise than I had expected. I in Fada on one day, discussed my for coming to Fada with the and they produced a guide for me. I a relative of one of the Police. I organised a contract, outlining a rough stating the price, start and dates on my second day in Fada, and the trip the third day. I was for my own security that the Police be aware of my travel plans, and the of my guide; this was all done I departed.

The region is quite spectacular, huge vistas of the desert great rocks worn all sorts of shapes, along cliffs, arches, overhangs, pipe’ stands of rock, and it was enriching to see and meet the people who their lives in this environment. There were paintings to be found in caves it was good to be able to have to ‘discover’ my own as well as those to the guide. There were camels, all looking in very condition as well as goats and There was some wildlife to be — Dorcas Gazelle, (Guelta Archei -I had most seeing the crocodiles early in the before the camels arrived), Fennec Fox, Jackal and Sheep (mouflon) at Guelta I am sure they were Sheep, but I need to do some when I return home. often called from the at night. I had a great time, and we on the 4th January to Fada, as agreed.


I obtained a 3 month from Brussels, and travelled to on Air France from Paris. You to report to Immigration Office in upon arrival. You need an de Circuler (A. de C.) before leaving This takes a minimum of days. Day 1 visit the Tourism near the airport to explain itinerary to the official. When the itinerary, make it clear you expect to finish the trip by a date — probably the on which you plan to leave They then prepare the A. de C. and you it the next working day. You take it to the Office of Public 300 metres down the road for stamping, and return there the working day to collect the A. de C. It is advisable to several copies of the A. de C. as it can save when you report to the Police/Public in towns along the way. you can go. (Hence it is best to start process on a Monday, Tuesday or — not on a Thursday or Friday, as you have to sit out the weekend for the next day.)

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I took with me the inadequate short chapter on Chad Lonely Planet, as well as the informative ‘Petit Fute to Tchas 2011-2012’ 3rd Edition This 240 page guide has of information about things to see and do in as well as accommodation and GPS waypoints, but that you have your own so is not very good for getting using local transport.

I by bus from Ndjamena to Abeche internet). I then found a 4WD north to Biltine, where I overnight at the Restaurant Al Afia. is no accommodation in Biltine). I found transport going to Kalait north. (It is not marked on all maps, but is a little further north Oum Chalouba). There I stayed the driver of the 4WD, as again is no accommodation there. Transport to and Fada is not available every I was lucky, and got a ride on an ancient Land Cruiser the next I arrived in Fada the following There is no accommodation in Fada, and was the OK to stay in a Police cell at the Neither is there a restaurant in so note that eating here are limited. Cell service is available in Fada and

To leave Fada, I had to wait for days before I found an supply truck returning to I then travelled from to Faya on top of an ageing Mercedes with 40 others, and stayed in for 4 nights. Again, there is no in Faya — the only mentioned in guide books the Emi Koussi — has closed. I with a family near the de Marche for 4 nights. The people of were very helpful and To return to Ndjamena, I went by 4WD took 2 days, although can longer. I had thought about Tibesti, but decided to see Ennedi and to see Tibesti on another trip. is as well, because when in 10-13th January it was very and very cold, making very unpleasant to say the least.

The Camel Trip

Costs. I CFA 10,000 or €15 per day (CFA655 = for the camel, another CFA 10,000 per day for the a lump sum of CFA150,000 (€235) for the food (sugar, spaghetti, tea, onions), and I spent CFA 50,000 (€75) on ‘extra’ including tinned peas, several kilos of dried dried tomatoes and some sardines. (The options are limited in Fada). The sting in the was the Tourist Tax levied at both Archei AND Guelta Bachekele. It is ‘per group’ — so if you are a of one then you have the honour of the whole fee. The tax is CFA50,000 per group at Guelta Archei, and I CFA40,000 (€63) at Bachekele, the Police advised that it was

We had one large camel, which I was to ride, on a shared basis the guide. Mostly I preferred to because although a great camel, it needed work to sure it kept walking at a rate in the correct direction. You are freer to take photographs walking. Take a warm bag, as some nights quite cold — say 5-8 degrees C. My guide Karli — known by the Police as a guide, was excellent.

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