Toyota 4Runner Suspension Upgrade

26 Мар 2015 | Author: | No comments yet »
Toyota 4Runner I

Toyota 4Runner Suspension and Upgrade

From the 4×4 of the Road :

When approaching a stop, the vehicle with the tires always has the right of

Contents :

Introduction:

When my ’85 4Runner. it had stock that were badly and sagging. In fact they had a reverse arch to them and the shackles were horizontal straight back)! The rear were riding on the overload all the time, which probably to the harshness of the ride.

The previous had installed a set of aftermarket Gabriel shocks and the truck rolled on a set 4 worn out (30×9.50) Bridgestone Duelers . All in all, the ride was and there was about 1 of clearance spring to bump stop. All I had intended to replace all that old iron. I finally got around to it the long July 4th weekend in when my company had a week-long

Here’s how I did it:

Click on any of the image for a larger (

640×480-24bit color)

I was relatively new to Toyotas and 4x4s and for an off-the-shelf suspension package for my shot at lifting my truck. In case, I selected North Off Road Specialties (NWOR) System 2 lift package N71200) with the KYB 3-4 lift shocks (f:84341, r:84412), new (which were not required), s/s torque rod bracket, adjustable and a few other misc. parts. arrived almost before I was for it, so it was time to get going.

Here is the of my truck after the rear were swapped and before the was touched. Unfortunately, I finished the end before I thought of documenting the There’s really not much to do in just support the frame on stands, remove the tires, the old springs off, and put the new ones on.

Check out the reverse arch on those front springs. already sanded, primed, and the frame and added the ProThane body mounts at this You can see the rusty patina on the differential .

Perhaps it was the rusty orange that lent its name to component?


Jack it up, slide in jack stands and yank the Now the fun begins! I actually began a few before by soaking all exposed with WD-40 and I was able to get all off intact and even re-use I needed a bit of heat and persuasion to get the damper off, though. A few of the shackle pins were rusted to the rubber bushings. I that screwing a nut back on the pin and a 2-1/2 lb. sledge hammer to them to let go. On one, I found by rotating the shackle while WD-40 also helped. I and sanded all the old pins and then them with NAPA silicone grease. It is a very green aerosol grease. So far no The polyurethane spring and shackle are grooved and therefore hold a lot of When I get the time, I’m to replace all the pins with models.

Now’s a good to nuke that rust. All were cleaned of accumulated rust sanded down to metal, primed with galvanizing primer and painted a black epoxy paint.

Out with the old springs, in with the The greaseable spring pads (in the leaves) are very cool.

Got the new on there, but that brake and drag link look to be to their limit.

A new stainless brake hose does the I also took this to completely flush the old brake out. I used a one-man brake bleed setup and the front and rear lines replacing the hoses. It took 1 qt. of new brake fluid to flush out the old Don’t forget forget to the rear brake proportioning too. While I was at it, flushed/bled the hydraulics, too.

I noticed the front brake pads badly worn so replaced a little later. I originally an extended front torque rod with the stock torque It went on fine, but then I noticed it was under compression the vehicle was level. This was the springs, twisting the axle increasing the wheel caster. I the stock rod and add-on bracket and them with a Ranch torque rod. It has a threaded joint on on end (urethane bushing on the You adjust the length so there is no at rest. It really improved the with less caster, its more stable now.

And the project is pictured above. the new SuperLift dropped drag the dual steering stabilizers and rod bracket. This picture with the old 30×9.50 tires. The drag link is nice in it allows for centering the steering For centering, just measure the the steering sector arm moves wheels straight and steering centered. The arm ends are 16 TPI, you can do the I have found it a little to adjust/tighten properly, the rear seems to hang up before the internal spring, resulting in steering. Plan on a few adjust/tighten/check

One trick I found with the drag link was to tighten the in end caps as tight as possible to cut on the internal play. In the stock the ends are spring-loaded, but designed that in either compression or at most one spring is in play, on one end the is on the inside and on the other its on the outside. The drag link use screwed in which are identical, both springs on the inside. So, under everthing is nice and tight, but in the two springs compress and make for turning input. To tighten the end really tight, I fashioned the pictured above out of 1×1/8 bar. The ends are filed to about 0.84 to just fit the then the tool is inserted in the and torqued down with a Cresent wrench.

Unfortunately I get any in-progress shots of the rear end Here is a shot of the left corner.

Here’s a closeup showing the extended bracket for the proportioner and the new differential breather attachment. The extension bracket with the NWOR spring set has a 2-1/2 offset between the old and new (I assume for a 2-1/2 lift). waste your money such a bracket. Its easy to your own to exactly match lift. Use a piece of 1/8 or 3/16 flat bar,

1 wide, mark 2 holes to the existing holes then up X (where X is the amount of your — measured before and installing the springs) drill 2 holes and get two small bolts to the sensing arm to the bracket and bolt the to the axle. In fact if you are clever, off a series of holes spaced to the existing hole spacing and them up the length of a longer of steel. Then you can adjust the rod up and down in small steps as to get good front-rear brake I noticed that the brake was still heavy on the front, stop-n-go driving, the front are hot, the rear are cool). the function of the valve is to sense a loaded rear-end (i.e. the are high) and reduce rear my extra 1-1/2 of lift a light load. My final is pictured below .

For the vent, I removed the stock breather and then ran a 1/8 NPT tap (greased) into the in the differential. Then I could use 1/8 pipe thread fittings. In I ran a straight fitting out of the axle, in I used a close nipple and a 45° to point the vent towards the I installed separate vent and filters with short, tubing runs to filters for line. The front filter is on the firewall, the rear vent on the carrier frame. Both are 4′ off the ground.

And the after Still has the old 30×9.50 Bridgestone on at this point.

And here it is w/ BFG 33×9.50 MTs, to rock and roll.

Phase II:

a year of bolting on bumpers, tanks, and other bits, I I needed to fine tune the

I felt I was too high and very with narrow tires.

The end was not level, the passengers side was lower due to the flatter spring flexing more.

The front shackles were digging the frame under compression.

on my cheap suspension ramps my rear axle was only about half what the end was.

So I pulled the lift packs apart as well as the old spring packs. I cleaned up and began to play. In back, I the main leaf from the pack (higher arch = droop) and all the rest of the stock and that is my new rear spring. It flat, just resting on the overload leaf, but droops as far as the lift pack did. I 1.5 longer spring shackles and a 3 shim. The softer spring got me 1.5 compression and the longer shackle 1.5 more droop. However, the KYB shocks allowed the rear end to out and they were too short for the droop, so I swapped in a pair of shocks. They are a bit too long, so I some 1.5 blocks to my cut-down to protect the shocks.

In front, I the first two lift leaves and the lower stock leaves (1 on the side, 2 on the passenger side) to the front. I added 1.25 spring shackles to keep the off the frame. As a side benefit, my 33 no longer rub the wheel well compression! A set of RS-5115 shocks up handle the extra droop of the shackles.

All in all, I’ve lowered the 2 full inches from the lift height. The front wells were about 36 stock (w/ 30 tires) and after the lift was done, it measured 43 (7 lift). Now it sits at 41, subtracting the 1 lift and 1.5 larger tire I guess I have 2.5 lift now. And considering the longer its probably closer to 2.

Spring and Specs:

Springs:

While I had the off the truck, I decided to measure the rates. By turning the springs down and measuring the distance the ground to the top of the spring (unloaded). I stood on the spring and measured the Using this admittedly technique yielded the following

Stock — 260 lb/in.

— 390 lb/in.

Below, summarized the specifications of the various leaves from the stock and 3.5 spring packs. The forward and dimensions represent the length of the in front of and behind the center hole.

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